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​C&R Marine  C and R Marine

Certified Yamaha Technician

Yamaha Outboard Motor Repair

www.candrmarine.com 

Outboard Cylinder Head Repair


   "GO SMALL OR GO HOME"

 I'm not sure how many of you have ran into this, but unless you have a bearing micrometer that reads MM to .001mm (1 micron), you can't measure it correctly.

This means if you order a #3

bearing PN# 69J-11416-20.   You might get a #3 or you might get this, a #2 with a green mark on the side which according to he who is unnamed is a # 3.  And this paper comes with it...HUH...

​C&R Marine 

C and R Marine

Certified Yamaha Technician

Yamaha Outboard Motor Repair

www.candrmarine.com 

Outboard Cylinder Head Repair

​outboard cylinder head


Microns are what these engines are spec'd out at IE numbers on the crank and block.  Most techs don't even have gauges that small and if you ask a veteran (older mechanic) about microns, especially if he's from an old-school OMC shop, he's going to say " WHAT THE HELL IS A MICRON ".  This is why you see so many guys fail in epic proportions at rebuilding these engines.   That is why they have the reputation of being a " THROW AWAY " outboard.  According to certain unnamed Yamaha representatives that I've spoken to on some issues concerning the ridiculously inaccurate colored bearing process, he said " why do you want to know? Nobody out there is qualified to rebuild our motors, not even at the dealerships".  He then told me to get a service manual, and totally avoided answering my question about my bearings BECAUSE HE DIDN'T KNOW THE ANSWER.   After pushing the issue, I finally got some answers 3 WEEKS LATER.  I had to build my customers engine and I had 12 of these strange bearings that nobody knows anything about (check out the pic I'll explain it for you).  

YAMAHA OUTBOARDS ARE VERY REBUILDABLE!  I DO IT FOR A LIVING WITH GREAT SUCCESS, and I know some of the best Yamaha techs on the west coast of FL that are very capable of doing it as well.  If you want to miss small, you have to aim small.  Some people call it obsessive compulsive.  Those guys can go home.  They don't want to put out a great engine, they just want it to be payday.  NASCAR teams don't have "close enough guys" building their engines, and when my motors go 50 or 100 miles off shore in the summer time, I want them to make it back in through those unexpected 3pm storms.   

So here it is in a nut shell, throw away the Plastigage (it works well when you measure with yardsticks .001") but not so well on .001mm.  Set up your bearings according to the manual, then throw that back on the shelf.   Ok now this must be the part we’re “not qualified for” (even though automotive techs have been doing it since the first internal combustion engine was built).  Get a micrometer for the crank (2"-3") you can use inches or millimeters which ever you are good with or have already.  Now get a bearing micrometer, and a dial bore gauge, keep in mind all 3 must be the same either inch or mm.  Don't convert, buy the right tools!  Converting WILL NOT WORK OUT, and they all have to read to the ten thousandths place (.0001") or to 1 micron (.001mm).  Now you already have your bearings torqued into the block via the Yamaha manual, measure your crankshaft main journals and then set your bore gauge to each journal.  Check the clearance on the bearings in the block.  You will be very happy you did it this way, because you will find out just how far off the "MANUAL" puts you.  Yeah, the crank might spin, but you will find some will be at the very bottom of the spec window and some will be out of spec or at the very end of the window.  Ok now you know what you have, it’s time to adjust.   You will need a pile of bearings at first, or you can just do the math and order what you think u need and hope they are good.  I like to replace and recheck.  The colors indicate bearing thickness. For example, if #1 main bearing clearance is .0028" and the spec window is .0008-.0024" then you know you are out of spec by .0004" so get your bearing micrometer and start measuring your bearings until you find a combo that will put you into spec.  Try to match all the bearing clearances as close as possible (the rule of thumb on oil clearance is .001" per inch of journal diameter).  Another example, if your main journal is 2.2 inches you will want .0022" oil clearance. 

The ultimate goal, to properly clearance your bearings to the crank as consistently as possible.  In the automotive world, this is " STANDARD PROCEDURE".  Yamaha has contorted the basics of engine building so bad that they are scaring or confusing people into just buying new motors.  I'm buying the cleanest blown motors I've ever gotten and they don't even need stickers.  Yamaha is just getting richer, and yeah it feels good to have 6 years warranty if they feel like covering it.  If you put too many hours on your engine in 1 year, are they going to swear you are a commercial fisherman and hang you out to dry forgetting that you spent $18,000.00 on the motor + $3,000.00 on extended warranty + $4500.00 on dec controls/install + $1785.00 tax for a total of $27,285.00?  They should give you more than a hard time for that kind of money, and people are getting sick of it!!!  

OK I WON'T RANT ANY MORE, LETS REBUILD THOSE "THROW AWAY MOTORS”.  I WILL HELP THOSE WHO ARE WILLING TO HELP THEM SELVES.  C&R MARINE PARTS ARE AFFORDABLE, MY RECONDITIONED HEADS HAVE A 1 YEAR WARRANTY, ARE BUILT BY ME PERSONALLY AND THE EDUCATION I AM GIVING YOU IS FREE!!! 


CHRIS LAURENO / OWNER C&R MARINE
Certified Yamaha Outboard Technician

 LOOK FOR MY CYLINDER HEAD SPECS, TOLERANCES AND “HOW TO BUILD” PAGE COMING SOON